Window depth is not deep enough for 2" faux wood blinds
I need to order 1 inch wood blinds for my bedroom window, because the depth of my window is not deep enough for 2 inch faux blinds. Would suggest that I order two inch and put on the outer edge of windows? I am not sure if I would like how this will look I already have trim around the window.
Measuring a shallow window comes down to one extra step most width-and-height instructions skip: finding your actual usable depth before you pick a product.
To measure a window for shallow mount blinds or shades, you need your usual width and height measurements plus one more number: the depth of your window opening at its shallowest point, measured to the nearest obstruction rather than to the back of the frame. That depth measurement is what you'll compare against a product's minimum mounting depth and flush mounting depth before you order. This guide walks through exactly how to take that measurement, what commonly gets in the way, and how to read the result once you have it.
What You're Actually Measuring
Depth is different from width and height because it's not just about the size of the opening, it's about how much clear space is available for the headrail or cassette to sit in. Two windows with identical width and height can have very different usable depth if one has a window crank, a sash lock, or thick interior trim eating into that space.
Minimum Mounting Depth vs. Flush Mounting Depth
Every product lists two depth numbers, and they answer different questions. Minimum mounting depth is the smallest amount of space the brackets need to be installed safely at all. Flush mounting depth is the amount of space needed for the entire headrail to sit fully inside the window opening with nothing sticking out past the trim. You can have enough depth to install a product without having enough depth for a flush result, and that gap is exactly what tells you whether to expect a flush inside mount or a protruding one.
Step-by-Step: Measuring Your Window Depth
1. Gather a Metal Tape Measure
Use a metal tape measure rather than a fabric or plastic one. Depth measurements are small, often just an inch or two, and a rigid tape gives you a more accurate reading in a tight space.
2. Decide Where You're Measuring From
Depth is measured from the front edge of the window frame, where the trim or casing is, back to the glass or to the first obstruction, whichever comes first. You are not measuring the full depth of the wall.
3. Check for Obstructions Before You Measure
Look inside the window opening for anything that would block a headrail or bracket: a crank handle on a casement window, a sash lock on a double-hung window, a tilt latch, or trim molding that juts into the opening. If there's an obstruction, your usable depth is measured to that obstruction, not to the glass behind it.
4. Measure at the Shallowest Point
Check depth at more than one spot along the window, since older homes in particular can have uneven trim or framing. Use the shallowest measurement you find as your working number, the same way you'd use the narrowest width measurement for an inside mount.
5. Round Down, Not Up
If your measurement falls between two common depth increments, use the smaller number. It's safer to plan around slightly less depth than you actually have than to order a product that turns out not to fit.
6. Record Width and Height the Same Way You Normally Would
Depth doesn't replace your standard width and height measurements, it's taken in addition to them. Our measuring guide covers the full inside- and outside-mount measuring process if you need a refresher on width and height.
7. Compare Your Depth to the Product Specifications
Once you have your number, check it against both the minimum mounting depth and the flush mounting depth listed on the specific product you're considering, found under the Specs tab on the product page. This comparison is what tells you what result to expect.
Reading Your Result
| Your measured depth | What it means |
|---|---|
| Meets or exceeds the flush mounting depth | The product should sit fully recessed, with the headrail finishing flush with your trim. |
| Meets the minimum mounting depth but not the flush depth | The product will install and operate normally, but part of the headrail will protrude past the trim rather than sitting flush. |
| Falls short of even the minimum mounting depth | That specific product isn't a safe inside-mount fit for your window. Look at a lower-profile product or plan for an outside mount instead. |
For more on what a protruding result looks like in practice and how to decide whether to stick with inside mount or switch, see our guide on flush mount vs. protruding mount blinds and shades.
Typical Depth Requirements by Product Type
These are general starting points based on common configurations we see, not a guarantee for any specific item, since depth requirements vary by product line, slat or vane width, and lift or tilt option. Always check the individual product specifications before ordering.
| Product type | Typical pattern |
|---|---|
| 1" aluminum mini blinds | Usually the shallowest option for a flush inside mount among horizontal blinds |
| Cellular (honeycomb) shades | Generally need less depth than horizontal wood or faux wood blinds, but more than 1" aluminum |
| 2" and 2 1/2" wood or faux wood blinds | Require noticeably more depth for a flush result due to the larger headrail and thicker slats |
| Cordless or motorized upgrades | Can add depth to the headrail compared to the same product with a basic corded lift |
Common Measuring Mistakes
Measuring Only the Deepest Part of the Window
If you measure at the point with the most clearance and ignore a crank handle or trim obstruction elsewhere in the opening, you may order a product that doesn't actually fit as expected once installed.
Confusing Minimum Depth With Flush Depth
Meeting the minimum mounting depth tells you the product can go in. It doesn't tell you whether it will sit flush. Check both numbers, not just one.
Forgetting to Account for Upgrades
If you're planning to add a cordless lift, motorization, or a wand tilt, check the depth specification for that specific configuration rather than the base product, since these features can add depth to the headrail.
Measuring Depth Only Once
A single depth reading can miss an obstruction or an uneven frame elsewhere in the opening. Check more than one point and use the shallowest result.
If Your Depth Doesn't Work for Inside Mount
If your measured depth falls short of what you need for the product you want, you generally have three options: choose a lower-profile product designed for shallow frames, accept a protruding inside mount if the amount is minor, or switch to an outside mount, which isn't limited by your window's depth at all. Our guide on inside mount vs. outside mount blinds and shades covers that decision in more general terms, and our shallow mount options overview lists which product categories tend to work best for shallow frames.
Our Take on Measuring Shallow Windows
Blinds Chalet has been helping customers measure and order custom window blinds and shades since 2006, and depth is the measurement people are most likely to get wrong on a shallow window, mostly because it's easy to measure to the glass and forget about a handle or sash lock in the way. If you're not confident in your depth measurement, or your window has an unusual obstruction, send us your numbers before you order and we can help you confirm what result to expect.
Related Guides
Frequently Asked Questions
What tool should I use to measure window depth?
A metal tape measure gives the most accurate reading in a shallow, tight space. Fabric or cloth tape measures tend to sag or bend, which can throw off a small depth measurement.
Where exactly do I measure depth from?
Measure from the front edge of the window frame or trim back to the glass, or to the first obstruction in the way, such as a crank handle or sash lock, whichever comes first.
What if my depth measurement is different at different points on the window?
Use the shallowest measurement you find. Older or uneven frames can vary in depth from point to point, and ordering based on the shallowest reading avoids a fit surprise after installation.
Do I need to measure depth if I'm doing an outside mount?
Not for the same reason. Outside mount isn't limited by window depth, since the headrail sits on the trim or wall rather than inside the opening, so depth measuring is primarily an inside-mount concern.
My depth meets the minimum but not the flush requirement. What happens?
The product can still be installed as an inside mount and will operate normally, but part of the headrail will protrude past your window trim rather than sitting fully flush.
Learn more:
Inside Mount or Outside Mount Blinds and Shades, Which Is Best?
Flush Mount vs Protruding for Inside Mount Blinds and Shades
